Telling Our Story

Since I discovered my family’s obvious sephardic history in 1999, that I made it a point of visit everything I deemed "Jewish". From reading, reading and more reading and listening, making sure my family and I took the walk all the way trough Portugal and Spain.

When this trip came up, I wasn’t so sure if I should go or not, after all I had already "taken the walk." But, I wanted to hear the lectures included in the program as well as meet some of the friends I corresponded via the internet. So, I decide to go and go a week ahead with my Mother, and for the celebration of the Centenary of the Synagogue of Lisbon. It was a moving experience.

Here we board the bus and travel as I remember…

The skies were brilliant, the people happy but tired from jet leg, and all a little nervous; after all we were all new to each other, on a face to face basis.

First to Cascais, a most charming fishing village on the beautiful Portuguese Seacoast-Riviera, the water of a myriad of azure blues and fine gold sand, the air salty and sultry warm. At the tourist office, we heard the Mayor explain about Cascais being one of the three places in Portugal, accepting refugees during the terrible years of WWII.

We listened to a lecture by Rabbi Leo Abrami about the Dr. Jacob Rodrigues Pereira born in France late 1700s during the parents’ exile from Portugal. He invented the system that is today called Sign language for the Deaf. What a lovely and moving story, of a converso family, that despite the rigors of escape, managed to celebrate life by giving the son a wonderful education. We heard about the Lemba tribe by a Lemba member from South Africa, who happened to be an emergency room Dr. We heard our own member; Dr. Steve Gomes describe in his passionate and emotional way, his own search and recent conversion back into the fold.

We heard also, the wise and knowledgeable Inacio of Lisbon and Israel; in his soft and warm voice explain so many different topics. We boarded the bus and visited Estoril, the place of exiled Kings and famous people, and visited the very spirited Jewish Italian artist Laura Cesana. From her balcony, took a few deep breaths trying to keep inside our hearts the beautiful seascape of the Portuguese Atlantic coastline.

Back on the bus, we visited too briefly, the most enchanted Place, the mountain of the moon, Sintra, and returning by the sea route, meandering through a very snaky road that churns the stomach back to our hotel. Good thing I sat right in the front seats. We had dinner and a brief get acquainted time. We were all very tired. The weather was hotly perfect. We went to bed early.

From there we drove to Alentejo where the vistas are large, of ochre yellows, gentle gray greens and clear blue skies. Where the great oaks trees (that produce cork) seem to be the only decoration, until you arrive at any all white washed town, so clean and crisp, you actually want to touch it. Take a piece of it with you, a little magic perhaps.

The hills scarce, the skies so cerulean, the white walls, the luminescent light, all make your heart sing and run and discover; and so we descend on the Museum city of Portugal, Evora; today still so old, so lovely, and enchanted, and perhaps, also so tragic.

Delicious snacks of the famous Alentejo cheeses and the most wonderful country bread ever along with cool beverages graciously awaited us. That was good.

We listened and viewed a slide show by a lovely archaeologist; Dr. Carmen Balasteros who gave us facts about the Jewish presence, a slide presentation and then our walk.

Evora was one of the seats of the Tribunals of the Inquisition. There, in two separate sites and squares, many were burned, some alive some after death, not even the ones that had already been interred escaped. We prayed for their souls and maybe ours too.

Numbers from the Autos da Fe of the Holy Inquisition of Evora.

Total Autos da Fe: - 164. Total people tried: 9466 (Includes Alentejo and Algarve).

Totals burned alive: men 186- women 158. In effigy: men 105- women 58.

We said kaddish with the Rabbi for all the souls tortured and lost, so moving, so sad yet, in such a beautiful setting. "Hear, O Israel, The Lord is Our G-d. The Lord is One"

Back on the bus, Dr.Edgar Ortiz, a Prof from Mexico, gave a lecture about the new Christians of New Spain and the Americas.

From Evora we proceeded to Spain, and most interestingly, visited Valencia de Alcantara, just across the border, the place where in 1497 Manuel I and Isabela, (the daughter of the Spanish Catholic Monarchs), married. And how disastrous such a union proved to be!

We visited a reconstructed to the period synagogue, where we sang and danced as our ancestors might have done so long ago between the two countries. The Rabbi was so exalted and inspired, that in my mind I could hear the music of Fiddler on the Roof.

Back then in the old Juderia, lived people of all faiths, Muslims, Christians and Jews.

A short drive to Castelo de Vide, for a very well earned night.

A small and picturesque city built as common atop the highest hill. It has always been one of my favorites, a large central park with a square with lots of shade trees and lovely views down the mountain. Here, long ago, existed a nice Jewish community. Here, long ago, our ancestors had chosen to live. But the dark, heavy smokes that arrived from Spain after 1492 would change their tranquil lives forever. It became overcrowded with people arriving from the expulsion of Spain. After an interesting and spirited interchange between us and the Mayors, we proceeded on our walk.

Today it is said, the buildings, school, synagogue, and even where the midwife lived, as well as their lives, are being reconstructed from the notes brought by people who visit from Izmir, and who bring with them the memories left by their ancestor; in writing or even old drawings, depicting the areas and their respective homes.

Many families kept their keys through generations. That is called Saudades.

People missing the homes and towns they left abruptly, and so much loved I suppose.

On the lovely walk thru the cobblestones, the steep streets, the profusion of flowers cascading from verandas, the bougainvillea, the array of color from the malvarosas (geraniums) we walked, perhaps who knows, accompanied by the strong presence of those who left their soul there, to the lovely fountain where we washed our faces and left with dangling implanted thoughts that perhaps something from the past maybe buried in between its base.

Back at the hotel, we had the funniest experience at dinner time. It took us about three and some hours to have dinner. It was a major holiday, maybe we were imposing.

The only thing left to do was laugh, and that we did, we cried from laughing. We couldn’t taste the food because the laughter was overwhelming. How funny Ernest, your face staring at a piece of that delicious Alentejo bread, flat on the bottom of your plate. That’s dinner? Just waiting, just waiting. The ensopado is coming.

From Castelo de Vide we drove towards Covilha listening to the soft voice of the simpatico Fernando R. Feiner of Brazil, telling us about the new Christians of Brazil. What a drive, surrounded by sun and sun, we crossed the hottest plains of Portugal, the region between Alentejo and Beira Baixa or Interior. It’s the cut off line between oaks and olive groves. From soft hues of warm greens, to the soft but sharp greens of silver, sprinkled with wild red poppies, purple lavender and wild yellow little flowers, it was a work of art awaiting to be needle pointed as a carpet of Arroiolos, sprinkled with the smoky grays of eucalyptus.

Big granite boulders protrude everywhere. Giants of old, standing sentinel, always watching… Spain is just a stone’s throw away.

Covilha was a chartered city under Henry the Navigator and the region of my paternal family.

Covilha, seats on the footsteps of Serra da Estrela, (Star Mountain,) and it happens to be the highest elevation of Portugal at 2.000meters. Like in Alentejo, we just baked. But ah, the air so dry, so pure and warm and fragrantly scented from the hills. It’s the kind of air that already knows me well. My ancestor’s graves just over the hill…

After a few urgently needed refreshments, we walked and visited the Textile Museum. Here our ancestors were kings of silk and wool. Today, Covilha and its surrounding area are still known for the quality of its fabrics. Covilha was also one of the places highly populated by Jews, later new Christians with many famous names. Here, where the granite abounds, people are as sturdy. It was in Covilha that in the University of Beira Interior, I heard the most eloquent and fabulous history of our people. These people, woven of silk threads and fine wool and granite. After 1492, more would join from Spain, oh yes, trying to escape the heavy, dark smokes that asphyxiated as it blew. The lecture was given by a most eloquent and nice Prof. by the name of Maria Antonieta Garcia, who just seemed to understand from the heart, all she was saying. I could just feel how she was so connected to her subject.

The most prominent professions of the Jews of the area were related to the textile industry and other professions necessary for the maintenance of community and living. Shoemakers, ironsmiths, shopkeepers, sellers, rent collectors. Oh yes, one of the professions given to those who could read and write, one of the professions along with tax collecting, given to the Jews. Tax collector, rent collector, one of the professions that become one of the most despised by the heavily burdened paying public. Surgeons, Physicians and scientists also abounded as well as Rabbis and scribers.

Here are some names that may sound familiar to you; Mestre (Master or teacher) Jose Vizinho, astrologer and Dr to King John II. Pero da(of) Covilha, the first Portuguese to reach India., the bothers Rui and Francisco Faleiro, cosmographers, who published the Treaty of the Sphere and of the art of navigation. Mateus Fernandes architect of the Monastery of Batalha, and Violante Gomes, a Pelicana, lover of D.Luis, second son of Manuel I, and mother of D. Antonio Prior do Crato, who did not ascend to the Portuguese throne, because the Portuguese nobility chose to give the crown to Spain, (also heirs, it’s true) rather than D.Antonio, the son of D. Luis and a Jewess. Covilha stood solidly by D. Antonio when he needed them. Ai, o ai o lariloule, ai o ai o lariloule.

Like the granite, I am strong and brunette… I am from Beira, Ai o ai o lariloule. After the lecture, very late in the evening we left with more books, more sweat and famished to the now famous town of Belmonte, where we attended the Friday’s service and were given a wonderful veggie dinner by the local crypto community, many now officially Jewish.

On the bus we reviewed a tape about their history, narrated by Inacio, a very beautiful, touching and sad history.

This town with a castle as is commonly noticeable in Portugal all along the Spanish border, (one castle every days journey by horse), and today ever 20 minutes by car.

A brand new synagogue overlooks the lovely valley with Spain in the distance. The community needs computers and our prayers for strength, our moral support without conditions. They need courage to continue on their quest, not harder than before, just a different twist. Again comes the same question; how is one to leave all behind after centuries of reinforcement? How can one be expected to switch overnight and leave behind all the acquired customs through so many generations?

I am sure it’s not a question of want to be Jewish, nor they don’t feel like they are, how could anyone even assume such point anyway? But at a human point level, older people have in general a harder time adapting to new circumstances, new traditions especially under the circumstances they were in for so many centuries. They were ostracized for what they practiced and believed in. Is it realistic to expect them to stop so abruptly?

I wish them well, peace, courage and that the same fabric that weaved them throughout time when they were so desperately alone, may continue.

What courage, how can anyone claim to be more Jewish? How long of suffering does it take? They need time without foreign interference on how to behave. They need time to slowly and gently reintegrate, all of them so no one is left behind. We must allow them to continue to be one family unit within a warm embrace.

Amen, Senhor, ao ceu va, ao ceu chegue! Ouve O Israel…the cry of your people.

In Belmonte we sat among relatives; I actually met people of the Vaz Nunes family. We introduced each other and with our hearts full we left content to our next hotel in the city of Guarda. They had made it against all odds. Why shouldn’t we? We are made of the same woven fabric… threads of silk and wool and granite. Guarda, Lecture by Charles Stein regarding the anusim of yesterday and today, how we need to be compassionate and helpful. So well put. We need to create a monument to honor our people.

Guarda has just completed 800 years as a Portuguese city. Perched high on the mountain, again it stands guard looking at Spain. Overlooking the valley, and as high was our hotel, with a non functioning elevator for the evening. It was a hot, tiring day. Yes, we had to carry our luggage as we arrived around midnight. Unfortunately I was given a room on the 5th floor, "but just two flights of stairs the guy said. Hah? You figure it out. Fortunately, I was helped by a gentleman. Good thing I only had a small suitcase with wheels.

Guarda was inhabited by Jews since the early 13th Century, and was a prosperous city up tol the Middle Ages. Most of the Jews from Guarda became craft smiths or traders who after their arrival from Salamanca Spain introduced their leather skills into the now regional craftwork. It’s from this city, that a Jew by the name of Mendo da Guarda, Aka Pero Esteves, with the nick name of "O Barbadao" (The bushy bearded one), a beard it is said he did not cut from the time his lovely daughter Ines Fernandes Pires or Peres, had an affair with John, son of King D.Pedro I, until the day he died. From that love two children, Beatrice of Portugal and D.Afonso, I Duke of Braganca (the House to inherit the Portuguese throne). John became King John I of Portugal, elected and made King by the people. It was a reign of great promise. Even though he loved Ines, he married a British princess, Filipa, daughter of John of Gault. They had many illustrious children, such as Henry the Navigator. John I however, never forgot his great love, the lovely Ines, and made sure that Ines and her Father, the Barbadao were well taken care of.

His children from Ines, grew up among the other princes in the royal households.

Afonso, the I Duque of Braganca was married to the daughter of his father’s most trusted man and become the wealthiest family of Portugal.

The following morning we drove, on the bus again, can you hear the tune? To Viseu, a lovely city, also with a history of Jews but no longer any distinctive markings. We bought more books, and even managed to eat at lunch time. From there we drove through vineyards and vegetable fields and yes, more boulders, to Cabanas de Viriato.

We watched a video about Aristides de Sousa Mendes’s life. It was here he lived, the great Portuguese Humanist Aristide de Sousa Mendes. We had another small lecture; we ate oranges from his garden, met one of his grandsons and were inspired by the man that said, "Rather with God against men than with men against God". Ambassador of mankind he, his wife and children, 14 of them, for three consecutive days and nights, stayed one step ahead of the invading German army and issued visas that saved 30.000 lives, 10,000 of them Jewish. The good Portuguese Council of Bordeaux, who followed his heart against orders.

We drove back to the hotel via Trancoso, a lecture was given by Dolly Sloan, editor of Halapid, who in her poetic way recounted the story and travails of Gracia Mendes, a patron, saviour and hero of our people. A woman who was far ahead of her time.

Trancoso, was another very Jewish town. Our guide was a wonderful and knowledgeable man. We saw the building that still shows the Lion of Judah, today called "A Casa do Gato Negro’. (The house of the dark cat.) We walked through the old Judiaria, and saw the old new Christian markings as we had seen in almost all the other places.

Funny how sometimes there would be two and three of those funny crosses on the same house.

We saw a lovely stained glass window, modern and Jewish.

We had a lovely dinner and I don’t need to tell you how tired we were. The heat, all the information, which made it very instructive, very interesting and much appreciated, but I was becoming a bit overloaded. My brain was crying out loud for a break. Of course we had a modern bus with AC and even made pit stops. We are human. So much I learned, and so wonderful an experience it is to share the same feelings and thoughts. We were a big family. We just understood, period. The next morning, we visited Coimbra. As the song says, Coimbra of the poplars, you’re still the Portuguese Capital, of love in Portugal, so beautiful…

Built on a hill overlooking the Mondego River, surrounded by poplar trees along its river banks, it is still viewed as a very romantic city. All the fado stories are written about the love of King D. Pedro I and his lovely Ines. Today the stories of the same romances passed through time amongst its student body. Up the stoned facades yellowed by the golden patina of time, it was one of the most important cities of the European Middle Ages. It is here, that the First Portuguese King, D. Afonso Henriques is buried. This beautiful city is the seat of the second oldest university of Europe, transferred from Lisbon in 1308 and still teaching.

At one time Coimbra had three Judiarias; Sao Tiago( a velha) where the most important synagogue was situated, Pedreira and Santa Justa.

It was in the Santa Justa’s quarter (after the 1496 expulsion) that the area becomes Rua Nova. And it was around here and the church of Corpo de Deus (Body of God) square, that the Inquisition of Coimbra operated. Another kaddish prayer time for the departed who died and so much suffered at the hands of the Inquisitors. Hear, O Israel, The Lord is Our Go-d. The Lord is One

Totals on the Autos da Fe of the Holy Inquisition of Coimbra:
Total Autos277: - Men 4225 - Women 4775. Burned alive: Men 142 - Women 171.
In effigy: -113 Men and 117 Women.

As you notice, a very large number. I believe because many times the Beira regions belonged to the Archdioceses of Coimbra, the people from that area as well as of all of the north of Portugal were sentenced here.

We silently prayed for their souls and that such not happen again.

We had nice snacks for lunch, walked a little bit, but unfortunately could not see the beautiful library or many of the other historical sites. I bought more books. Portugal is full of treasures to see. You just need the time. On the bus again… Lecture by Art Benveniste of Halapid on many interesting vignettes stories on new Christians.

And, back to our Hotel in the city of Guarda. A relaxing dinner, a well deserved rest and manhana, we can drag our luggage in the elevator. Hooray.

Today, we depart to Porto, the most Noble and Always Loyal city of Portugal.

Here, they say, people of the north work hard, are very proud and industrious. The people from Lisbon are gay and playful.

You see the weather in Lisbon is better. Lovelier, friendlier, warmer, that’s what it is.

But, I must admit, Porto is lovely. It has an old patina, like an antique that we want to cherish. Our hotel, very modern and close to the synagogue was just perfect.

We attended services there at the synagogue Mekor Haim(1929) where we met people, and some people came to meet us. Imagine, Ernest from Belgium, he met cousins for the first time after three centuries of separation by that death hand carrying the sword, the olive branch and the cross, called the Inquisition. Everything about the Inquisition seems to be so deadly, deprived of air, of truth, of knowledge, of compassion or understanding. After all these centuries of floating apart, two people from the Lopes Cardozo family met. My soul cried tears of joy, of sadness of glorious victory over evil, observing that embrace. An embrace that has existed through centuries and has been woven through the threads that makes up their lives, the embrace that is the song of freedom, the song of resistance a song of survival. Ah, these songs of freedom, that so well describes our people. How can one describe such a feeling? Our ancestors, right there celebrating that embrace with us. Celebrating the idea they their deaths for Judaizing, for believing in their God had not been lost. They were there to give us strength. They were there showing us the way back. We were there, returning, coming home.

With Jose and his lovely Mother Isabel Violante Pereira, from whom we also bought a most interesting book, we walked all over old Porto. How interesting the three old Jewish quarters; one after another, in time and expansion. They are just memories now, but certainly strong memories shining from those cobblestones and the strong and old walls. Strong memories of laughter and of cries, the voices of the people carried in the endless winds of time. Isabel kindly gave us her time to show us her city, intimately, as only a person who knows it inside out can. The oldest Judiaria, now named Rua de Santo Antao, was the area given by John I later in 1386; to "his Jews" some land to build a new quarter. It is located today between the Church of Nossa Senhora da Vitoria and the Monastery of Sao Bento, right around the Rua de Belmonte, that I am sure everyone remembers well. In here the synagogue was situated on the escadas da Vitoria, still known today as Escadas da Esnoga. Boy do we remember those, slippery and shiny stone from centuries of walks that seemed endless. A little further, around Passeio das Virtudes, used to be the old Jewish cemetery. A plaque in the church of Sao Bento da Vitoria is a reminder. Do you have the pictures Arthur?

By the Alfandega or Customs House right on the Ribeirinha, (along the riverside), the Jews had their warehouses and shops. Casa do Infante, where Prince Henry the Navigator was born, still stands. His friendship with the learned Jewish community is well known; astronomers, cartographers, scientists, and all fields in the nautical arts were an integral part of his team. Remember his father, Henry was half brother to the Afonso Duke of Braganca. The Jewish quarter of Monchique, used to be in the area above Alfandega, where the ruins of a convent stands today and is named Monte dos Judeus. An inscription in Hebraic was found here in 1826, and is now at the Archeological museum of Carmo, in Lisbon.

Have you noticed no Inquisition here? They tried but failed. How unbelievable that the second largest city in the country, had no Inquisitional tribunal! It does not mean that people from here were spared, no, they went to trial mostly in Lisbon and Coimbra They say, not too many accusers here, but not yet proven.

We even had exuberant times; we walked right into this magnificent spot where we could see the old Porto quarter and the city of Gaia, right across the Douro(Golden) River. What a magnificent time we were having, taking pictures, when one of the tenants, a professor correcting exam papers and who felt invaded by people from five continents, was so outraged by our intrusion. It was an old apartment complex backyard! Our souls needed that beautiful scenery. We explained, I guess he understood. We were just admiring the beauty! But as a Portuguese, he had to show his indignation by our invasion of his property. How could he feel important otherwise? He had to complain, he had no choice. After venting his fury, the fellow was very nice. I understood its called turf. Dog barks, no bite. Dinner time was upon us, some by the Ribeirinha, Rufina and I had dinner back at the hotel where we were meeting other nice people. After the long walks up and down, steps and more steps on slippery cobblestones, another evening of blissful sleep was waiting.

After many more books we departed to Tomar.

Lecture by Judith Cohen who spoke about the music in medieval times Iberia, unfortunately not written down, and the community of Belmonte.

The city of Tomar, was the Headquarters of the Knights Templar until the 14th century, at which time, the order was extinguished and replaced by the order of Christ. While they visited the old sites, I had lunch with my lovely cousin Sofia, who introduced us to another professor interested in our history who would give us another lecture, coincidences. And then, a visit to a real and recently excavated synagogue of old (from the 14th Century and that lasted until 1496). As you remember, as of 1496, Jews became new Christians, rather crypto Jews. The Judiaria here comprised of only one street and is currently called, Rua Dr. Joaquim Jacinto. It was a small, but very prosperous and famous Judiaria around the time of the Discoveries in the 1500s, and when Henry the Navigator was the Master of the Order. Here is located today the Abraao Zacuto Portuguese Hebrew Museum. The acoustics of the room, well kept by large ceramic pots, are still in the four corners of the synagogue. Diggings are still in progress to try to uncover the baths. Again we prayed. Lovely Tomar of the Nabao River, old customs and traditions, of flowers cascading from every window, monuments peeking through every corner, memories of old photographs of my Dad as a young man learning how to be a soldier. Amen, Senhor, ao ceu va, ao ceu chegue!

We departed having a lecture by Rabbi Abrami, interesting stories of individuals during the time of exile. We are now on our way to my maternal grandmother’s city of Obidos. This city was given by the Portuguese Kings to all Portuguese Queens, as part of the royal dowry.

Here in Obidos was a small Jewish community inhabited by traders, artists and scientists.

The most enchanting, lovely, walled and old, most colorful, flowery and beautiful and you have to see it to believe me.

Here many bought irresistible souvenirs made in Portugal and even Portuguese art and crafts made right here, Morroco!

We also visited the place where the old synagogue used to be, but is now nothing more than an old private residence in ruins.

On the bus again, and Naomi spoke of her background and her role as a scholar doing her thesis for a P.H.D. And with a lovely sunset over the Atlantic and the Castle walls, we drove back to Lisbon, my city. We stayed right in the main Rotunda in the center of Lisbon. Services at the synagogue Shaare Tikva that celebrated in June its100 years followed. Fortunately was just a few short blocks away, therefore of walking distance from the hotel.

Another funny dinner time, oh yes! What a riot that was. I guess we were tired and giggly and the service not the best. So we laughed. You see we were always late. Well, almost. What noise? We were too tired to hear. Saturday the gents went to the synagogue for services. I had lunch with Mother.

In the evening we went to Mae de Agua, (Mother Water) the water works of Lisbon, imagine, having a concert in the water works of Lisbon? Yes, Prof. Judith Cohen from Canada.

Singing the old local medieval songs, playing a myriad of instruments, her voice so melodious, melding in the soft sound of water, running in the distance, becoming one with the music, the thick walls, perfect harmony for all senses. It was divine. Bravo Judith! What a way to end the day. Back at the hotel, I went to sleep like a baby. The following day, our last day, we were back on the bus. We went sightseeing my city, always lovely, no matter from what angle.

Lisbon, still the song of other eras, of enchantment and beauty, always lovely and dressed with such grace, the veil of white morning rays covering your beautiful princess’s face, oh Lisboa antiga, city on seven hills overlooking the Tejo (Tagus) River and its beautiful harbor, allowing the Atlantic rolling in so gently… A city largely influenced by the great Jewish Philosophers and scientists. Always it seems bathed in sunlight. Yes, that rare luminosity.

On the bus again, we went to the marginal, (along the river,) Belem. The point from where the caravelas sailed and a great Epoch was to begin. Many monuments, much to see…

We had lunch, and had for dessert pasteis de nata covered with cinnamon and a sprinkles of sugar the traditional pastel de Belem. With our stomachs full and content we drove to the old Jewish quarter, right on the slopes of St.George’s Castle, taken from the Moors by King Afonso Henriques in 1147.

In its labyrinthine streets, still preserved and about the only area not affected by the disastrous earthquake of 1755, it’s charming to walk around. Many Jews settled here after the Spanish expulsion of 1492, along with the already existing community. Even today, there is the Rua da Judiaria, and close by on the n 8 Beco das Barrelas, is the site of the old ancient synagogue. It is also said, that one of the other several synagogues of Lisbon, is now what is known as Conceicao’s church, how funny my name, and my grandmother’s. My Dad used to take me there to see the azulejos (tiles). Hum… I must go back and figure it out. The church was built over the synagogue.

We then drove to Lisbon’s Baixa or downtown area, more precisely the Rossio.

What a lovely square with statue, opera house, fountain, and hundreds of pigeon’s serpentining around the legs of people, flower vendors, a wonderful place.

But, the shadows soon take hold, and the smokes that arrived from Spain in 1492, are still lingering in the memory of those who through study or tradition still remember.

On the 21Dec 1471, it is believed that the discovery of the Islands of Sao Tome, took place, being that day the day designated as that Saints day. Because of its dangerous animals and bad water, only after 1485 they started to be populated.

And it was in 1493 according to the various writings from the time," that the Islands were populated by boys and girls, and men and women and animals from Portugal and some slaves from other areas of Africa". Many of the new Christians ended up there, as a place of refuge, others would be sent there as punishment by the Inquisition for Judaizing.

D. Isaque Abravanel, wrote about it (and according to him, 18 years after the children were sent there,) giving it the name Taimsah, which phonetically sounds like Sao Tome. Llater, Usque would call it therefore, the island of lizards. "And after the forced baptism, they were sent there, children, over 2.000souls, and there they multiplied and become many, and mostly populated the island". The cruelty however, took place under the reign of John II. Children from the age of 3 years (or 8) to the age of 15 were harshly removed and carried away from the arms of their families. Children of the newly forced converted Jews. Even the Christians cried at such scenes. Later, colonizers believed today to be new Christians from Madeira Island, went into the islands and along with the children, developed the island sugar cane industry.

Manuel, Manuel why were you so ambitious? So bad you couldn’t see how it all would turn out. Manuel the Fortunate according to Portuguese history books, but nicknamed by Abraao Zacuto "the Opressor of the Jews." He ascended the throne on the 27 Oct 1495. He is to marry Isabella the Catholic Queen of Spain’s daughter, also named Isabella. As part of the royal matrimony contract, all Jews must be expelled from Portugal. Manuel does not want that. He sees how much the country coffers will suffer, he sees how these prosperous and educated people will leave the exploration unfinished, and he comes up with an idea. And on the 24 of December 1496, he decrees the expulsion, an expulsion that will not take effect, as he will not actually allow them to leave. The ships he had promised to take them into exile did not arrive, and the three ports he ordered them to leave from, were closed. Only one remained open in Lisbon.

In October of 1497, a day before Easter, approximately on the month of April in the Palacio dos Estaus, all those forced into it to while waiting to go into exile, were forcefully baptized. It is known, as the standing baptism. Many committed suicide.

Here, right in Rossio square, at the stroke of drops of Agua Benta, Benta by whom? Holy Water, Holy by whom? That hand carrying death. The Portuguese Jews ceased to exist. They were now, new Christians. A new era was just beginning… Hear O Israel…

From now on, life was full of horror. Now, Manuel could marry. Now, he no longer had Jews in his Kingdom. Now, Isabella the princess could not say, there were heretics in his kingdom. And so they married. Manuel’s vision was to unite the Iberia Peninsula under his flag. His heir would become King of Portugal and Spain. But it wasn’t meant to be.

His ambition, no matter how much he tried through marriage, would never bear fruit. Still in May of 1497, he deliberated that," for at least a period of twenty years; Inquistions could not take place against the religious practices of the newly converted people."

In 1498 Portugal reaches India, and the young Isabella Queen of Portugal dies.
In 1500 Portugal officially reaches Brasil. 1500 Death of Prince D. Miguel da Paz, son of Manuel and Isabella. In 1506 Manuel marries for the second time, Maria, sister of Isabella, younger daughter of Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain.
1506, Lisbon, will no longer bear the title, most noble by decree of King Manuel I, after the incursion and deadly riots against the New Christians. Title removed. Maybe I should use an Inquisitional term, confiscated.

Across from Rossio square, on the right stands the church of Sao Domingos. Remember the one with the ceiling under reparation? Well, sometimes, somehow, it catches on fire, and the smell of smoke seems to intermittently permeate its interior.

It was from that church, that the riots of 1506 were incited by the Dominicans. That is the truth. It wasn’t all about one little candle’s reflection on a statue. A miracle! No cried someone, it’s a light reflection from the window or a candle. That was enough. The Dominican shouted, Heresy! Herectic! Cristao novo!

They told the people to kill the Jews, the new Christians, and so they did. Two thousand in three days! Their homes were burned and pilfered. That is the truth. The King had 50 of the butchers killed, two of the priests were burned and their monastery, Sao Domingos closed. Because it seems women had been vicious in particular, 30 of them were also killed. The entire population of Lisbon had to pay a tax of 20% of all their holdings to the king as collective punishment.

Lisbon’s titles of "Noble and Always Loyal were removed. He wasn’t the best of the Kings towards the Jews, but they were his Judeus. "Meo Judeos.

While taking them into the new territory of forced conversion, he still in his own way, protect them. He resisted the Inquisition. What confused you Manuel?

Further to his deliberations of 1497, he now decreed that" another 17 years were to follow the twenty already given, and therefore, no inquisitions against the new conversos." 1507 perhaps after some remorse, he decreed that those who wanted to depart, may do so taking along their possessions.

The Diaspora begins, and even in the Diaspora, that spread to France, Italy, North Africa, Greece, Turkey, Holland, England, Germany and other north European nations, these prosperous and industrious sons " filhos da Nacao" engaged in commerce and trade through networks now forced by the Inquisition.

The Portuguese, also known as Jews in Europe, or" People da Nacao," even under the stressful suffering of separation of family, property and country, prospered.

And as they fled, a new World opened up; new ventures, new prosperity, new rules, all under the arm and eye of the Inquisition and all the way to the Americas.

According to Isaac ibn Faradj, a Hebrew scholar, D. Manuel had ordered that all Hebrew books be confiscated, maybe burned along with all objects from the synagogues. However it is common knowledge today, that he did not order the burning of books or manuscripts or any items removed from the synagogues, rather they became his own property. Many of these books and manuscripts were later sold in India, many going back to the communities in the Diaspora, and their rightful owners at very heavy prices, but under Manuel’s umbrella. He made profit yes, but also made sure the books were safely under the rightful owners. But many were stolen or lost. It is true, that the pressures from Spain, from his wives and the Pope to impose the Inquisition in Portugal as in Spain must have been overbearing, he did not expulse but rather forced conversion but while Manuel I was alive, the Inquisition was not permitted in Portugal.

Poor Manuel, so torn between two worlds. All the Jews until then protected by the crown, had helped to bring the great epoch and epic of Maritime Discoveries. That great Portuguese Heritage that would soon come to a stand still.

1514 Publication of the Afonsine Rules, (laws) Ordenacoes.

1518 Third marriage of Manuel with Leonor, granddaughter of the Catholic Monarchs of Spain. This union produced many children including John III, a religious fanatic.

1520 Town Charters reviewed and reformed.

1521 Manuel I died. John the III ascends the throne. The inquisition will now begin, and how…

Between 1515 and 1531, many negotiations took place to impose the Inquisition in Portugal. It was however only after that date that it slowly would begin. A Dominican from Spain was recruited. And much they were to suffer, and so much more to come. Hear O Israel, the cries of your people…A people spread apart, families longing for each others love and memories would now become the daily prayer.
In about 1553, about 3000 Portuguese Jews lived in Ancona, Italy, where they helped develop commerce around the towns of Pesaro, Livorno and Ragusa.

To France it accelerated after 1550. They preferred the zones around the frontier with the Iberia Peninsula, Biarritz, Bordeaux, St Jean de Luz and even Paris. There they could get news of family quicker. Perhaps they hoped to go back sooner some day when perhaps the world became saner.

Perhaps they dreamed like all generations dream, of better days.

But as the inquisition accelerates, more and more have to leave Portugal.

By 1593 the numbers increase to Holland and Amsterdam and other countries; England, Denmark, and Germany. To all those lands they brought their Portuguese costumes and traditions, their language and longing, that longing that even today is called Saudade.

The community of Amsterdam reached its peak around 1670, about 2500 people of the Portuguese Nation. By 1675 a fine synagogue was built. The community was finally coming together. The newly arrived Christians had to go through a process of learning. Many great books were written, printed and learned. Great scholars will flourish. The People of the Portuguese Nation as they were called every where were becoming international bankers and entrepreneurs, great men of business.

In 1699 The Bevis Mark synagogue of London is inaugurated. The first after the Jews had been expelled from England during early medieval times.

The special and most probably profitable contract for the British with Cromwell, worked.

Lives needed to be saved, and England would soon embark in it’s ascent to glory.

A few arrived in New Amsterdam, starting the big banking houses of New York.

The Dutch were now trying to get Brasil, many started going there from Amsterdam, to meet family already sent there by the Inquisition as penance.

Holland takes over part of Brasil for approximately 9 months. Portugal again recovers Brasil. The Inquisition there intensifies. The crypto Jews or new Christians, go further into the interior trying to escape its grip and are today coming out. Five centuries later, we are all coming out. Is it the curse applied over Iberia for five centuries, from the time of expulsion?

The new Christians, horrified, trying to escape the great tentacles of the Inquistion, spread throughout the Americas. South America, Central America, New Spain (Mexico).

They arrive, they conquer, they suffer, and they prospered.

Portugal now under Spanish rule, is even more rigid.

Portugal and Spain start their great decline after so much glory. If only Manuel had not been so ambitious. What would Portugal have become?

England and Holland were now taking over the world, the spice trade, the Orient, all the maritime routes. Our people once again, making other places great and prosperous, under strange tongues and different customs and a heavy heart. Wonder if the Portuguese and Spanish Monarchies ever thought about that at the time? What they had lost? They were still so involved with the trappings of the Inquisition, perhaps didn’t have the time or mind to think about greater things. The rigors and vengeance of the Inquisition was becoming the countries psyche. Their horizons narrowed as the brutality increased. The people’s mouth closed shut by the venom of secrecy, deceit and fear. The inquisition was powerful and strong.

Civilized man going through the way side. Like derailed trains with lost man without morality, love or a greater goals, who in their journey had lost their truth and wisdom, their touch with life. Only death seemed to prevail now.

And the ravages of the inquisition were everywhere. Not all had the meanings or now the strength to depart. They will pay heavily with their bodies and belongings, they, the now labeled new Christians who had to wear at the mouth of the stomach, a six pointed red star. They the new Christians who could not wear fine linen or garments, who could no longer hold jobs, who were tortured, ridiculed, murdered without pity.

And in Rossio square, one of my favorite places, where as a child my Father would take me for ice cream, to play and watch the pigeons fly or follow me and my crumbs, and now, as an adult I look with trepidation as I visualize all of this, the Dona Maria Theater- Palacio dos Estaus; the palace of the Inquisition, the Holy Inquistion, the Palace of Death. Holy, holy about what, mass murder?

And from the church across the street, to the right, Sao Domingos of the Horrors of 1506, from this church, there, took place most of the horrific marches of the Death. Can you visualize it? All dressed in sanbenitos, most probably all already death inside. They marched, the march of the death, of the afflicted, the accused for Judaizing, for believing in one God. Our ancestors, in procession, can you hear their cries? Can you see their desperate stares? I can and in one of my favorite spots. There stood the court, eating, while our ancestors burned. How can anyone even think of food while the smell of burned human flesh spreads in the air? My soul gets heavy just by thinking about it. It’s like trying to breathe in a room without doors, windows, or oxygen.

There they were burned. From that church came the death march, sentenced by the Dominicans. "Given to the Secular arm", - meaning death sentence! No ifs, nor buts. No arguments, nothing! You were not given information whatsoever about your trial or its outcome. You had to guess, what next? After enduring torture, after your bones were stretched in the poltro, or pole what next? Maybe, maybe if you were lucky you would get the garrote. That meant you were garroted before going on the fire as a merciful act.

Small, little details that meant a lot in the department of human suffering and endurance I must say. You might have been given the choice of with or without. Maybe! If you showed remorse, repentance, maybe! If you acknowledged that all along you were wrong, at last minute, maybe, either chose in your mind to live or prolonging by guessing or confessing what they wanted to hear hoping for life, or you refused all logic, beliefs or other. If you told them they were right after all.

Here, the sentences had been given. Who was to live and who was to die. Here again, stood the hand that gave or took life. Here in this lovely square, man tried to make Gods decisions. Here in Rossio square as in some other places around Lisbon, going towards the River, where these Public Inquisitions took place, The Inquisitors held power. Power, is it men’s greatest fault? Is it men’s great escape? Or is it men’s great death? For only death can survive such power. Only the souls of the burned can survived over those hands holding the sword, the olive branch, and the cross. The symbols in the Inquisition seal.

The seal that you had to bear in mind at every instant, every moment, every single day of life. Oh what life, to see burn before your eyes, all your children, your parents, your siblings. You know what hurts? All this they claimed in the name of Jesus. The Jesus that supposedly was a circumcised Jew? Why? Why if he had been a rabbi, did he not leave anything written? Why didn’t the Romans write about this Messiah? Why so much later, did Paul start a new religion? The burning was to purify the souls, to save them…

Why, I ask, why does the church want to burn the brothers and family of Jesus their God?

Is it hate? Is it love? Is it to show power over the God of the Jews?

Is it because they are not the Chosen people? It is power. It is greed; it is the struggle of the weak that are not so sure of their belief.

And so they burned, sometimes with green wood so the person could suffer more while alive. Who could be living alive under such circumstances? Perhaps the desire to live is greater that hate, than power, than greed.

And poor are those who survived this Autos da Fe. They in most circumstances will have to wear the sanbenito. Imagine already having been tortured, mortified, all your properties and belongings confiscated, oh yes, that was precisely the first thing done and then having to wear this horrendous sac over you body, like public advertisement many times painted with flames or other niceties, just to remind you and all others that you are suspicious. You are a new Christian, a Judaizer. Who would want to associate with you? Be seen with you? Maybe just your mother, for it meant death.

And so many times, the same people went to this parade of the Autos da Fe, these glorious feasts of the insane, the perverted, and the dark side of mankind.

You went until they had enough in their minds, that you were a Judaizer. Two, three times, didn’t matter how long it took. They had the time and your money.

Just remember, prison was not like today. No TV, no fresh food, and after your assets had been confiscated, your family still had to pay for your food; you had to bring clothing and even your mattress. Anytime they had to drag you someplace, you had to pay for your own as well as the transportation of those who had to accompany you. Fun hah? Do you want the reasons for Judaizing? Let me tell you; here is the moratorium of 1536 giving the rules to alert people, and it was by law that in all church doors these laws be posted, so all could abide by it, and if any body saw anyone doing this, it needed to be reported immediately under penalty of prison otherwise!

Not working, dressing clean clothes on Saturdays or Friday nights.

Cook the meals for Saturdays on Fridays.

Lighting and using new wicks on the candeias (oil lamps) before dawn on Fridays and letting burn all night till they died out on their own.

Killing animals for food, by cutting the throat quickly and with a very sharp knife, tried over a nail, and then covering the blood of the animal with soil.

Not eating pork fat, pork or rabbit, not fowl that died of drowning, nor eels, or squid or octopus or any fish that didn’t have scales.

Fast on the big holyday of September, all day until the stars appeared, not wearing shoes, and begging forgiveness from others.

Fasting on Queen Esther’s day, on Mondays and or Thursdays.

Solemnize Easter by eating unleavened bread, praying the psalms without saying the Gloria Patri, Praying while bending the head,

Eating only fish, olives and eggs when somebody died.

Bath the body, and wrapping them in a long chemise of white linen, and a folded cover of cloth as if it was a cape.

Bury the death in deep and virgin soil. Putting in their mouths a grain or a coin, and telling them it was for the journey.

Cut their nails and keep them.

Throwing away any water from the cantaros, (pots), because the angel of death came over and washed his sword in It., or that the soul of the departed had bathed there.

Blessing the children by placing the hands over their bent heads, while at the same time moving the hands downwards while caressing their faces without making the sign of the cross.

Circumcising the children, after baptizing them and wash the oils applied by the priest. All or any of the above was good enough.

Even knowing to read and write was a bad sign.

The Holy Office of the Inquisition, terrorized the people, kept the population under control by using such threats and instilling fear. Life was worst than death.

Yet many survived. Yet, many kept their practices, scarce, perhaps not the true practices, except in their hearts. How, without books, could they keep the knowledge?

How within such fear? What was the toll of such prolonged suffering in the living population of Portugal? How was the population affected? How did the marrano, the crypto Jew, the new Christian who by staying paid such a heavy price fare? Who sings their song of survival? Who rejoices in their courage? Can you hear, oh Israel? Have you forgotten your suffering?

The Inquisition never really won, despite all the morbid terror employed.

We are the survivors, the testament that our ancestor’s memories survived and live.

What would be the purpose of life, for us today, if not for the presence within us of our ancestors? They live on through us. We are they’re purpose and reason for suffering and having existed. We are their thread, the same fabric, their continuing.

As a famous burned crypto Jew, a playwright and lawyer he, Antonio Jose da Silva, once wrote in his play; the labyrinth of Crete" Don’t trust I live because I am alive, for even alive I am death." And in Anfitriao he writes- Saramago cries," but if for mere circumstance, Tirana (tyrant) and wicked star, is guilty not being guilty, then guilty I am". And that was the truth. It didn’t matter if you were guilty or not, the fact of being new Christian was enough to be.

An Auto da Fe or an Indenture of Faith would translate into modern language, like a mega concert. The big players and observers celebrating, the court and nobles, rejoicing in the prospect of all the souls to be saved, while eating and joking, the Inquisitors and Clergy, the orchestra and singers of death, the population of ignorant and hungry people, the crowds to enjoy and be afraid. It was a big circus, where the afflicted merely walked amidst thunderous shouts. Judeu! Queimem-no, Morra!

It was also a time, when the chance of seeing their long lost relatives, who could be recognized only by their loving heart and maybe even for the last time, came. Theirs were the procession of the death, of the afflicted. Can you hear our people cry?

It was a time of darkness, of despair, of the brutality of men that by force and fear and using their power over masses, try to take control and force humanity to behave according to their narrow view. Dictators of time, burners of life, stealers of souls.

Celebrated in the Autos da Fe by the Holy Inquisition of Lisbon;

248 Autos da Fe, - of which 3787 were men and 3237 were women. Total: 7024.
Burned (em carne) alive: 284 men and 177 women. In effigy: - 62 women -119 men.
In Effigy meant, either death or abroad. Absent. If the person was death in Portugal, the bones would be disinterred and burned in the Auto da Fe. In case the person lived outside of Portugal, they painted a likeness of the person and burned the statue.

With a heavy heart we said many prayers with the rabbi. We needed them and for our ancestors. Hear O isarel,
The Lord Is Our G-d. The Lord is One. Adonai, Adonai,Adonai.

Amen Senhor, ao ceu va, ao ceu chegue.

It was a time for silence, for reflection, for reverence.

We went to the ministry of Tourism where Art Benveniste of The Halapid magazine told us about the Jews of Brasil. He already had lectured on the bus.

I only know the Lisbon of my time. The Lisbon I love. Perhaps I can’t ever see it the same way, perhaps I am more mature now. But I have to have hope. I still want to see my city in its radiant light.

Gay, colorful and so full of sea mist and blue skies. It’s a new day, a new chapter.

Lisbon is an old city and a modern city. Lisbon is today I hope, a city to be proud of, a city of tolerance, of kindness and of understanding., of open mind.

We returned to the hotel, where we had another lovely lecture by another kind Prof. and then exchanged ideas about our trip.

We were a nice bunch of people trying to learn as much as possible in a very narrow period of time. From many countries, we adapted and adjusted well. We are the proof. A bunch of strangers in a way, tied up together in our studies who through history became family.

We went out for dinner and Fado, we ate, we sang and we were merry.

Can you hear the fadista? Can you hear Eneida sing? In a Portuguese home seats well, bread and wine on the table, and if some gentle and simple person knocks at the door while we are eating, a plate is always ready for a stranger, such openness, such frankness seats well says the wise voice of the people when it says, the wealth of the poor is in the joy of giving. Four white washed walls, a scent of rosemary, and a bunch of golden grapes, a hot caldo verde (soup) still smoking from my bowl… It’s most definitely a Portuguese home; it is for certain a Portuguese home.

We chose to celebrate life in the bright shadows of our ancestors, who I know are always smiling at us. Maybe I forgot someplace or someone, my apologies.

In this embrace started by Rufina of South Africa, may we bring light to that darkest period.

MVS- July 17.2002 (Copyright)

E-mail: Rufina Bernardetti Silva Mausenbaum